New sycamore spoons

April 2, 2016

Kitchen Countertop

January 31, 2016


Beautiful beech from Wales full of character.


After planing them all ‘ dead straight’ which is not an easy task with such long length 3.25 metre, I started gluing them with domino joints, one at the time so I could give it my full attention, I was very pleased with  the result.




The beautiful grain of the wood after a bit of sanding to 120 grit.


I added a piece of cross wood to the end grain, that prevents the board from splitting, just better.


Routing the opening for the Belfast sink.



Routing the drainage, I also cut a water drip under the drainage to stop water drips from staying under the countertop.


I sanded the countertop back to 0000 steel wool in the end, added 6 layers of finishing oil with in between  smoothly going with steel wool with the direction of the grain. I applied 2 coats of boat lacquer on the underside.



Shadow- box table

January 25, 2015

I was asked if I could make a table as display for a ‘flag’,  glass on top, coffee table height.

It would look terrible if I just make a table with four legs box on top- glass -red flag shining through,  I started to look in books for ideas, when my eye felt on low stools with cushions on top, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.

Great that’s it.

I used ash it had a soft roze color in it, it fitted well with the red flag.



The stands are three heavy pieces of ash, cross-slotted together no screws not glued.


I gave it adjustable feet to make sure it will be stable on any floor.



The frame is screwed into inserts on 6 points easy to take apart.



For the Finnish I made two mixtures, first  linseed oil /raw tung oil/ urethane varnish semi gloss, add that four times. Than a mixture of linseed/ raw tung oil and two hands shredded bees wax warmed up.  Very very nice that is what Sam Maloof  uses on his beautiful chairs.



Tall gate continue

November 17, 2012

It’s about a year ago that I made the ‘tall gate’ for Jackie Morris, in the mean while Tamsin Abbott has been working very hard on all the glass pieces to fill the open spaces in the gate and the wall parts, still a few to come. For me about time to finally finish it all start with the frames and get it out there.

Start with the top of the door frame, make strong keys to join the four part together that would form the rounded shape.

Finished joint

Drill the square mortices

Checking the fit on the door

Frame parts for wall pieces, the pieces will sit between vertical framework.

Boss Tilly is watching me closely

The sill that sits on the wall is sloping to both sides for rain water to flow of with waterdrip on the undersides.

The wall parts went to Tamsin and are back in my workshop with all the glass work in, one by one I am getting them in place on the sill.

Have to be very careful handling them

Checking out the wonky wall a day before coming with all the framework that means one sleepless night thinking how!?

Ffion helps me out.

Good luck with all the screws we put in

We just needed a few points where wood touch stone put screws in there, the rest gets filled up with stone and cement. It feels really strong all together very firm , happy with that.

Jackie also happy and excited.


Ffion is rendering the spaces between frame and wall, lead connects and protects the top of the wall parts.

The hinges are hand made by a blacksmith, there are still a few glass works to come from Tamsin.

Drainage board

May 29, 2012

Drainage board for a cute little cottage, I had a plank of beautiful Welsh native elm just enough to make this drainage board, not much waist optimal use of the wood. After planing, squaring and sawing I glued it together with lamello’s (biscuits) in between.

With the router and template under an angle, I cutted out these drainage slots.

I filled the cracks with sawdust mixed in glue.

And sand it all to a very fine grit, the last one with 800 grit and terpentine.

Laquer on the underside, lots of layers of finishing oil on the top surface.

It’s installed here, I made a little waterdrip under the front edge of the board to stop water traveling under the board in the cupboard. I did the test and it seems to work well.

Oak door handles

April 3, 2012

I cut the shape, out of welsh brown oak, on the bandsaw. Worked it futher on the upsidedown beltsander,  with my carving knife I worked on the inside corners, then I used fine sandpaper and tung oil.  Used the morticer for the square hole where the shaft pen goes. Now I want to find bronze round head slotted screws to hold the back plates on the door.


There is no door to put them on yet, I just wanted to make them it’s great fun, so there will be many more.

Plate rack

March 4, 2012

My idea for making a plate rack was to make it as simple as possible in design and it had to be very practicle in use. For the top shelf I made sliding dovetails, the strongest joint you can have for shelfs for the rest mortise and tenon joints, the two back plates are slotted in glued and screwed.

Find out where support is needed

Check  the plates won’t fall out

Drill the square holes for the sticks with the mortiser, through two supports in one go.

The ash is very flexible it won’t break easy, still I made sure that the sticks can be replaced

To hang the plate rack on the thin wooden wall I used metal wall plates, two on the plate rack two on the wall , first I screwed a board of the same ash on the other side of the wall for use as a coat hanger, but more important I could use longer screws to secure the plate rack on to the wall.

I left  the handcarved pegs of for a while to let them acclimatize in this kitchen space to shrink , I made them out of green hawthorn.

All finished and oiled

Top cabinets for kitchen

February 25, 2012

Drawing trying to find  out how to make a corner cabinet at the end of the row of top cabinets, and make this fit all together.

corner cabinet  half way in the make

Olive ash, making joints for six doors for the top cabinets, the doors will have glass in it

putting doors together

put hinges on

Door for corner cabinet, this is my minture tall gate door

corner cabinet door

the row of top cabinets just put the doors on, still have to make the sides

try to get this straight on the stone wall some how, there is nothing straight about a stone wall, but I love them anyway.

See how much this wall is out square had to fill it up a lot and use long screws, not only here though everywhere behind these cupboards are spacers to get it all in line.

all fitted; doors on. sides on. grips on.

Handcarved grip out of hawthorn for the corner cabinet door

you can see the beautiful olive ash especialy on the sides

Casement windows

August 31, 2011

Arranging and cutting the sapele. I ordered just enough wood, so no room for mistakes

The sloping sill and the tops of the frames

Cutting  the tenons of the stiles. Copy the angle of the sloping sill at the bottom in the front of the stile. I do this on the tablesaw. I left the saw in the angle position after cutting the angle on the sill

The frames are ready to glue now

The stiles for the 6 windows mortised

Stiles are ready; I start cutting the tenons

Ventilating glass beads with water drip. By using these there will be no problems with rot in the bottom corners of the windows.  With double glazing especially you always have a problem with condensation  between glass and  wood, caused by the temperature difference of the materials. Without the ventilating glass beads condensation is locked up and the wood starts to rot – it’s nothing to do with bad weather

Bottom window with water drip and ventilating glass bead in place

Windows in place. The middle window is set, the others are hinged

Windows fitted

For the finish I used Osmo UV protection oil clear. I also put a strip of lead under the sill with waterdrip

On the inside I put oak sills and treated them with the same oil

Elm Plates

July 22, 2011

I made a couple of plates today. I needed one or two and I found myself making them while I was working on the Queen Anne style  table legs, which are maybe a bit too complicated for me. We’ll see, they have to wait – they won’t walk away, yet!

Glueing holders on to the inside of the plates which are still flat, and starting to turn the back first

After glueing a holder on the back I start turning the inside of the plate. I know this is not the proper way to do this, but this is what my mind figured out. I want to go on a course for this one day because I really like wooden plates and bowls.

With a hack saw I cut the plate from the holder; with the machine turned on I have to watch out to cut it only halfway through

Back, after sanding the holder off. That is the reason I ended on turning the inside – because it is only on the back that I am able to sand the holder off

I used olive oil on the wood, but I will add  a few layers of tung oil which is much better

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