Big arched gate

July 18, 2015

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Making A template for the arched top.

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Using douglass fir, I made the top out of two pieces join them together by a hammer headed key and two cross tongues.

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If you look carefully you can see four oak wedges; by tapping those in the joint pulls together tight.astriddegroot

Screwed the template onto the douglass fir top and started routing.


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To join the top to the sides I used countertop bolts, I had to drill big holes and hand saw the space for it.

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Without gluing it yet I am trying the fit with the bolt in and the two cross tongues.astriddegroot

Chamfer the edges and sand everything.astriddegroot

Check again dry.astriddegroot

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Fill and sand. astriddegroot

The hinges are hand-made by a blacksmith. astriddegroot And adjustable .

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Oriel window

January 25, 2015

An Oriel window is like a bay window but held up by brackets.

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I draw out the plan on a piece of plywood. And started with making the sill.

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The sides of the frame are solid for two casement windows, in the middle will be a sash window so needs different framing; hollow sides hollow top.
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This is one of the side frames.astriddegroot

Here you can see the start of the sash framing. It will be hollow to allow the contra weights going up and down.

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Sash frame put together checking it on being square and true before glueing.

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Thin divider in each box they prevent the weights bang into each other when sliding the windows up or down.
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Started work on the sash windows.

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Outside corner piece.astriddegroot

All the windows fitted.astriddegroot

Hardware fitted, I put the weights on as well to check the sliding of the windows, very smooth.

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Start the brackets.

The window will sit on the brackets,  covering the window opening, I also lead a steel cable that starts under the sill runs through the sash boxes comes out on the top and screwed against the wall, to make the firm fit.

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The window will sit three storage up a house looking out over Fishguard harbour.

Photo’s will follow.

 

Two sashes

August 18, 2014

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It’s a year later now that I got to restore the left side of the porch, the side that gets the weather, the window so rotten it almost falls out, and a skeleton of a door that was fixed in the frame; as well as the bottom parts of the frame and of course all the beautiful features just gone.

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Making a three paneled hardwood door, I am copying the door that is on the other side of the porch and gonna put it on hinges.

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Rubber spacers around the panels to position the panels nicely in the openings and also gives the wood space to expand without doing any damage to the wood. I am not going to use glue on them.


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The beading nailed I used a flexible sealant in between the panel and the glass bead.

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I made new features copied the ones that are still there on the other side of the porch


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Work done new windows, new sills, door, features, replaced rotten frame parts on the bottom, and put double glazing in. something has to be done about the gutter still.

Window frame for porch

August 18, 2013

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This was the situation: big sill totally rotten, bottom rail from window frame gone, tenon’s on styles gone, features fallen of, top corner of left pillar rotten.

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First I made a new sill and fitted that under the pillar’s with the help of the farmer and his tractor. Then I had a good look at the window frame with the rotten bottom rail and it was because of the bottom styles where gone too that I  decided  it had to be a whole new frame.

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I made space in my small workshop- put the frame together than I realized it would never fit through the door as a whole, so I had to find space in a shed at the farm for gluing it, so I did that.

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Lucky the glass was fitted with beading’s I could take them out pretty easy without braking them, then the old frame didn’t take long.

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At this point I needed a hand to lift the frame up, clamps in the middle to hold it while I fiddled the frame in place,  a curled up slab of lead that fits into a slot under the rail just behind a water-drip makes a good weather-seal.

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I am putting double glazing in.

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Build up new profiled features on the bottom and at the top.

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Undercoat

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The one gutter pipe is still filled with mud -stuck, I leave that one out for now until it dried out and can be emptied.

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The finished window with new sill and pillar corners.

 

It’s a year later now that I got to restore the left side of the porch, the side that gets the weather, the window so rotten it almost falls out, and a skeleton of a door that was fixed in the frame; as well as the bottom parts of the frame and of course all the beautiful features just gone.

 

Tall gate continue

November 17, 2012

It’s about a year ago that I made the ‘tall gate’ for Jackie Morris, in the mean while Tamsin Abbott has been working very hard on all the glass pieces to fill the open spaces in the gate and the wall parts, still a few to come. For me about time to finally finish it all start with the frames and get it out there.

Start with the top of the door frame, make strong keys to join the four part together that would form the rounded shape.

Finished joint

Drill the square mortices

Checking the fit on the door

Frame parts for wall pieces, the pieces will sit between vertical framework.

Boss Tilly is watching me closely

The sill that sits on the wall is sloping to both sides for rain water to flow of with waterdrip on the undersides.

The wall parts went to Tamsin and are back in my workshop with all the glass work in, one by one I am getting them in place on the sill.

Have to be very careful handling them

Checking out the wonky wall a day before coming with all the framework that means one sleepless night thinking how!?

Ffion helps me out.

Good luck with all the screws we put in

We just needed a few points where wood touch stone put screws in there, the rest gets filled up with stone and cement. It feels really strong all together very firm , happy with that.

Jackie also happy and excited.

 

Ffion is rendering the spaces between frame and wall, lead connects and protects the top of the wall parts.

The hinges are hand made by a blacksmith, there are still a few glass works to come from Tamsin.

French windows

October 13, 2012

French windows don’t have a stile in the middle, it opens up completely, in this case because the customer wants to be able to step out through the window and sit in the garden.  As if this isn’t difficult enough they also had to be inside opening windows, two things that doesn’t make it easy to make a water and draft proof design.

Double rabbets on the sides and the window stile, with draft-seals.  Single rabbet on top and bottom with a ‘click’ on the windows. I always try to avoid wood on wood when window is closed, water likes to sit in between there it’s called capillary force, I used draft sealing on all these points.

Flush bolts on the inside to hold the one window.

Flush-bolt bottom,the windows are sticking out over the rabbet on the outside the sill is sloping and attached on the window is a water-drip.

Water-drip under the sill, lead curves up under and just behind the water-drip, water-drips at bottom of the windows, ventilated glass-beads with water-drip.

Outside rabbet end is cut under an angle so it doesn’t trap water.

I did all I could think of; to stop water and draft getting in or getting trapped, oh yes and water-drip at the top of the frame. This wall is most exposed it’s situated quite high and looking out over the Irish-sea.

Casement windows

May 25, 2012

I had to make two casement windows, for a stunning beach house at Whitesands.

The windows had to be made in the same style of the already existing beautiful bay windows.

Solid and double glazed windows that can stand the fears weather.

Finished windows

Curved window

September 25, 2011

The first focus is on the curve,  on measuring the heights left and right and then the height in the middle. If the arch is shallow enough  I can make it out of one piece of wood. It is, so first I take a strip of three-ply and make a template of the curve

I clamp the template on the Douglas Fir and start routing the shape

and carry on routing deeper and deeper

The rest is straightforward. The rabbet depth is for 22mm doubleglazing, the sill is sloping

What angle is this?! I have to cut this out with a handsaw and drill out the mortises later to be sure of the right spot

All the joints cut and mortises drilled out

Fitted window

I also made templates for the top parts of the window (with curve) in order to order the glass. They fitted.. just! Phew!

Under the sill, a water drip, and I left enough space there for the water drops to drip off and leave the slate sill, and also for a strip of lead that curves back up underneath the sill. No chance for water here

Finished it with glass sealant between glass and glass bead. I started with a 3mm foam strip in the rabbet, set at about 3mm from the edge. Then I put in the glass standing on spacers and put two spacers left and right to keep the glass in place. I then put the foam strip on the inside of the glass bead against the glass and nailed the bead in place. The sealant fills in the 3mm gap that is left by the foam strip.

Window repair

June 26, 2011

My work is done here, the rest is for the painter

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