Welsh cawl spoons

January 15, 2016

 

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This is a cherry spoon there is one more cherry in the photo’s the others are sycamore.

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These spoons are authentic to Wales each family member had it’s own personal favourite spoon they where used for eating cawl that is a chunky soup like broth. The bowls are about 79mm wide the handles 220mm long.

 

 

 

http://www.astriddegrootspooncarving.com

Arched garden door

February 28, 2015

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A semi-headed frame cut out in three lengths and bolted together with hammer- head tenons and shoulder tongues.   astriddegroot

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astriddegroot Make a template with router and circular-jig. astriddegroot I screwed the template to the wood and start routing the semi-headed shape. astriddegroot

astriddegroot Laminate the rebate. astriddegroot Check on straight level. astriddegroot

astriddegroot Gluing the head of the door. astriddegroot Made another template left the jig in the same setting just moved the router closer I wanted 3mm space between frame and door. astriddegroot Layout of the door, put together not glued yet. astriddegroot Made this jig to hold the slats firmly for when I drill the mortice. astriddegroot And a mortice in the semi- rounded top of the door was a bit tricky to get them all exact. astriddegroot Check the fit. astriddegroot All glued now,  glued the door first, than gluing the frame around the door in the exact position. astriddegroot With the 3mm space between door and frame. astriddegroot Fitted in its place, the entrance to a beautiful walled garden. astriddegroot astriddegroot

Shadow- box table

January 25, 2015

I was asked if I could make a table as display for a ‘flag’,  glass on top, coffee table height.

It would look terrible if I just make a table with four legs box on top- glass -red flag shining through,  I started to look in books for ideas, when my eye felt on low stools with cushions on top, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.

Great that’s it.

I used ash it had a soft roze color in it, it fitted well with the red flag.

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The stands are three heavy pieces of ash, cross-slotted together no screws not glued.

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I gave it adjustable feet to make sure it will be stable on any floor.

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The frame is screwed into inserts on 6 points easy to take apart.

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For the Finnish I made two mixtures, first  linseed oil /raw tung oil/ urethane varnish semi gloss, add that four times. Than a mixture of linseed/ raw tung oil and two hands shredded bees wax warmed up.  Very very nice that is what Sam Maloof  uses on his beautiful chairs.

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Hawthorn Spoon

June 14, 2014

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http://www.astriddegrootspooncarving.com

Kitchen cabinet doors

September 29, 2013

DSC04946Welsh oak for the doors, the battens are inlay dovetail-shaped

DSC04953And flush with the door.

DSC04957Gluing the battens.

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DSC04996Template for routing.

DSC05031I always like to make my own grips knobs or pulls these are made from the same oak as the doors.

DSC05110Finished doors

 

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Finished door.

DSC05285Little turned pull I used beech,  top cabinet door.

 astriddegrootAsh paneled door untreated.

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astriddegrootGlass doors and corner-cabinet door for top kitchen cabinets, ash.

astriddegrootOak under-sink cabinet with panelled door, rounded corners, hand-made pull and a little latch.

Single bed

June 4, 2013

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It is based on the Shaker style which I love, I used the oak as fine as it could be and built it strong with decent joints, simple and elegant. Start with the four legs first cut the mortises all the same height from the bottom.

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Next is turning

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The legs for the head end are to long to put in my lathe, cut just above the square bit turn first then drill a hole in the top then turn top piece with on the end a round pen and glue them together.

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Glue them together, clamp.

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Had to cut slots in the round top parts without cutting in the ball at the top and a slot in the rail-

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to fit in the oak boards these are the head and feet ends, the boards are not glued they need to be free for expanding or/ and shrinking otherwise they would split and crack. Only the mortise and tenons from rail and square leg parts are glued together.

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By cutting the board corners I followed the curve of the balls.

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You can take the bed apart by taken out eight beautiful silicon bronze slotted round head bolts, you have to peek in the holes to see them, it had to be the right ones.

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Toilet seat

April 15, 2013

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About 17 years ago I made a whole series of toilet seats used different woods and tried out different designs,  I made one with a lid ( I swapped that one with an electrician for having electric done in the workspace). and one with a lid that was a smaller children seat. I think my sister had that one when her kids where small .  Simple shape’s made out of very nice but not a lot of material, This time I used air dried Welsh oak, made a template from the shape of the toilet itself to give the seat a perfect customize fit.

DSC04535Planing the oak boards

DSC04540Glue a rough toilet seat shape

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With the jigsaw I cut it out leaving it a bit to big

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This is after routing with the template, I will use the belt sander to sand the last wobbles out, I want a tied shape.

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This is the first time that I placed  the hooks on the far outside, that will make the seat more stable.  I marked the holes of the toilet onto the template.

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The hinge holders glued and the holes drilled, have to round the underside of the hinge holders, so that the seat can go up.

DSC04585Rounded edges

DSC04586Few layers of tung oil.

DSC04591Perfect fit

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Made sure that all of the rubber feet touch the toilet when it is down I do not want to much tension on the hinge holders.

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You might fancy one for yourself  just contact me by e-mail and make it possible, I love making them they are very comfortable and just lovely.

Tall gate continue

November 17, 2012

It’s about a year ago that I made the ‘tall gate’ for Jackie Morris, in the mean while Tamsin Abbott has been working very hard on all the glass pieces to fill the open spaces in the gate and the wall parts, still a few to come. For me about time to finally finish it all start with the frames and get it out there.

Start with the top of the door frame, make strong keys to join the four part together that would form the rounded shape.

Finished joint

Drill the square mortices

Checking the fit on the door

Frame parts for wall pieces, the pieces will sit between vertical framework.

Boss Tilly is watching me closely

The sill that sits on the wall is sloping to both sides for rain water to flow of with waterdrip on the undersides.

The wall parts went to Tamsin and are back in my workshop with all the glass work in, one by one I am getting them in place on the sill.

Have to be very careful handling them

Checking out the wonky wall a day before coming with all the framework that means one sleepless night thinking how!?

Ffion helps me out.

Good luck with all the screws we put in

We just needed a few points where wood touch stone put screws in there, the rest gets filled up with stone and cement. It feels really strong all together very firm , happy with that.

Jackie also happy and excited.

 

Ffion is rendering the spaces between frame and wall, lead connects and protects the top of the wall parts.

The hinges are hand made by a blacksmith, there are still a few glass works to come from Tamsin.

Drainage board

May 29, 2012

Drainage board for a cute little cottage, I had a plank of beautiful Welsh native elm just enough to make this drainage board, not much waist optimal use of the wood. After planing, squaring and sawing I glued it together with lamello’s (biscuits) in between.

With the router and template under an angle, I cutted out these drainage slots.

I filled the cracks with sawdust mixed in glue.

And sand it all to a very fine grit, the last one with 800 grit and terpentine.

Laquer on the underside, lots of layers of finishing oil on the top surface.

It’s installed here, I made a little waterdrip under the front edge of the board to stop water traveling under the board in the cupboard. I did the test and it seems to work well.

Door knob walnut

April 6, 2012

I started roughcutting on the bandsaw, but most of the shaping is done on the beltsander, and yes sometimes it did fly out of my hand.

Maybe there will be a twin, here on the next one you can see what I did on the bandsaw

Walnut is very hard wood also means that the finish is very very smooth, you really have to feel it, lovely wood. I did start with the second one as you have seen but unfortunately I wasn’t able to finish it because a big load of wood came in yesterday for making windows, playing time is over, back to business, I’ll be back with the handles later some time.

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