Big ellipse

May 17, 2015

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Big ellipse window with door fitted into the oval cove at Theatre Gwaun in Fishguard.

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Selected this beautiful french oak for this project.

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This took me a while, 8 pieces with perfect fit in this stage not glued just hold tight together with a band-strap.

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I screwed the template onto the oak and start to router the inside of the ellipse.

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Leaving a rebate.

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Cut pieces for the door frame; make them fit in the ellipse, the ellipse still not glued.

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After locating the exact points of the joints I drill the mortices for the door frame.

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With the frame parts in place it’s time to glue the whole piece.

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After glue had dried I router out the outside.

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Made a new template for the door.

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Decide on how to divide glass and paneling.

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Use the underside of the door as template to router the panels.

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To get a nice fit.

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I glue the door and use the frame itself for clamping, I will be sure of a perfect fit.

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All sanded.

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Fitted bronze hinges, lock, made little doorknob, water drip above the paneling few coats of Osmo oil, and green glass arrived as well.

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Ones there was a clock in this oval space.

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You can see the door was needed to give access to the satellite dish.

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Oriel window

January 25, 2015

An Oriel window is like a bay window but held up by brackets.

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I draw out the plan on a piece of plywood. And started with making the sill.

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The sides of the frame are solid for two casement windows, in the middle will be a sash window so needs different framing; hollow sides hollow top.
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This is one of the side frames.astriddegroot

Here you can see the start of the sash framing. It will be hollow to allow the contra weights going up and down.

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Sash frame put together checking it on being square and true before glueing.

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Thin divider in each box they prevent the weights bang into each other when sliding the windows up or down.
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Started work on the sash windows.

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Hardware fitted, I put the weights on as well to check the sliding of the windows, very smooth.

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Start the brackets.

The window will sit on the brackets,  covering the window opening, I also lead a steel cable that starts under the sill runs through the sash boxes comes out on the top and screwed against the wall, to make the firm fit.

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The window will sit three storage up a house looking out over Fishguard harbour.

Photo’s will follow.

 

Ellipse window

January 25, 2015

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I made this device based on the Archimedes Trammel, with my router on the end. Useful jig for making templates  for oval and circular shapes. Archimedes_Trammelastriddegroot astriddegroot astriddegroot astriddegroot astriddegroot astriddegroot astriddegroot

Two sashes

August 18, 2014

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Venetian sash

October 16, 2013

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Venetian sash are those where the frames are divided by mullions into three or more openings, in this case the centre pair of sashes is hung, the smaller side ones are fixed, the solid mullions are there to divide them, the cords for hanging the centre pair of sashes are taken through the top of the mullions over pulleys into the side boxings.

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Start with the sill with sloping shape and joints for the box-linings and mullions.

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The top and the sill, with the joints for the mullions

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Inside of a mullion lining grooved to fit onto the mullion

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Tonged mullion

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Top of mullion

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Top part of pulley grind off, so that the wheel can be brought close up to the head of the frame.

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In the mean-while I  started on the wood for the windows.

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This is a plate that will cover up the cord that will run over the top of the fixed sashes.

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Cord run behind the plate.

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Frame parts ready to assemble.

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Frame glued, screwed, filled and sanded.

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Fit the windows.

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Waiting for glass, all glass beads cut, pre-drilled and everything undercoated.

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Now that the double glazing is in place I can cut the lead weights, hang the windows and make them slide.

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Sash is running nicely, all prepared and ready.

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Sash fitted

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Window frame for porch

August 18, 2013

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This was the situation: big sill totally rotten, bottom rail from window frame gone, tenon’s on styles gone, features fallen of, top corner of left pillar rotten.

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First I made a new sill and fitted that under the pillar’s with the help of the farmer and his tractor. Then I had a good look at the window frame with the rotten bottom rail and it was because of the bottom styles where gone too that I  decided  it had to be a whole new frame.

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I made space in my small workshop- put the frame together than I realized it would never fit through the door as a whole, so I had to find space in a shed at the farm for gluing it, so I did that.

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Lucky the glass was fitted with beading’s I could take them out pretty easy without braking them, then the old frame didn’t take long.

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At this point I needed a hand to lift the frame up, clamps in the middle to hold it while I fiddled the frame in place,  a curled up slab of lead that fits into a slot under the rail just behind a water-drip makes a good weather-seal.

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I am putting double glazing in.

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Build up new profiled features on the bottom and at the top.

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Undercoat

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The one gutter pipe is still filled with mud -stuck, I leave that one out for now until it dried out and can be emptied.

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The finished window with new sill and pillar corners.

 

It’s a year later now that I got to restore the left side of the porch, the side that gets the weather, the window so rotten it almost falls out, and a skeleton of a door that was fixed in the frame; as well as the bottom parts of the frame and of course all the beautiful features just gone.

 

French windows

October 13, 2012

French windows don’t have a stile in the middle, it opens up completely, in this case because the customer wants to be able to step out through the window and sit in the garden.  As if this isn’t difficult enough they also had to be inside opening windows, two things that doesn’t make it easy to make a water and draft proof design.

Double rabbets on the sides and the window stile, with draft-seals.  Single rabbet on top and bottom with a ‘click’ on the windows. I always try to avoid wood on wood when window is closed, water likes to sit in between there it’s called capillary force, I used draft sealing on all these points.

Flush bolts on the inside to hold the one window.

Flush-bolt bottom,the windows are sticking out over the rabbet on the outside the sill is sloping and attached on the window is a water-drip.

Water-drip under the sill, lead curves up under and just behind the water-drip, water-drips at bottom of the windows, ventilated glass-beads with water-drip.

Outside rabbet end is cut under an angle so it doesn’t trap water.

I did all I could think of; to stop water and draft getting in or getting trapped, oh yes and water-drip at the top of the frame. This wall is most exposed it’s situated quite high and looking out over the Irish-sea.

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